Making a Shire horse flight set Part 1 - The flights

Making flights is a simple and fairly cheap thing to do, although easily available to be purchased ready-made online, these traditional decorations were originally made by the heavy horse owner so it seems obvious that they are quite easy to make yourself. With relatively few tools and only a few simple techniques you can make your own flights and be ready for show season! These flights (sometimes called 'flags') pictured here are the traditional Shire flights. Originally they were kept to the primary colours and white probably because these were the most available at the time but times have changed and you see all sorts of colours in the show ring now - even pink! There are over 30 plain shades available in grosgrain ribbon as well as prints, so you can be really imaginative and individual if you wish to be or you can stick with tradition.
Flights with with side ways bows or plumes are called 'standards'. These are made for the Clydesdale traditionally and other heavy horse breeds and you will be able to find the tutorial on making these in the topic list on the right hand side in the page along with plaiting guides for your particular breed (coming soon)!

You Will need:

• Grosgrain ribbon - In the above pictures the Emerald green and Royal blue uses 25mm wide ribbon and the Royal blue and Bright orange uses 25mm blue and 15mm orange. Grosgrain ribbon is strong and will hold itself up. Its a woven ribbon with a good sheen and is available for around £4 - £6 for a 25m reel (which is by far enough for around 2 sets of flights and neck bands)

• Medium thickness garden wire. (not heavy duty or you wont be able to bend it by hand once twisted)
• Pliers
• scissors
• Thread and needle - Thread matching to the ribbon colour you are using in the centre of your flight.
• a pin
• sewing machine (this is optional and can be hand stitched, or not stitched at all, for the tulip shaped flights)

All bits and bobs assembled in the same place.

Here is a photographic guide to making your own Shire horse flights in both styles, first the more open type of flight:

 

 Firstly cut 2 pieces of ribbon one in each colour. These can be however long you want your flights but for people who need a measurement around 18cm long. Grosgrain has clear woven lines so it is easy to cut in a straight line.

Fold the ribbon in half and cut around 5mm on the folded side to the top corners to make a V shape in both ends of both pieces of ribbon. Make sure you cut all at the same angle by cutting the same distance from the top every time so all flights match. This is easier than it sounds once you get started!

 You will end up with something like this!

 Fold your pieces of ribbon in half points matching so the centre ribbon is on the outside here my centre ribbon will be the purple (which looks like blue!) and my outside spikes will be green. Lay on a flat surface to make the next part easier.

Spread whilst on the table the inside colour (green here) one half to each side. Once you are happy with how they look put a pin in the bottom of the flight near the fold as shown here. The outer petals spread more once you insert the wire so a little closer than you would like as the final flight would be perfect.

Stitch together both halves of the middle ribbon (purple here), about 1cm from the inwards point. As left picture above. To stitch I use double thread (matching to the ribbon colour, here shown lighter so it was able to be seen better in the photographs) knot your thread at the end. Enter from the middle of the 2 halves of the ribbon so the knot is sandwiched between and not seen on the outside. Stitch 3 neat stitches through both halves and then put the needle through one side towards the middle and knot off around the stitches so the final knot cannot be seen from the outside.

Once you have done the middle ribbon, stitch through the middle ribbon at each side (see middle picture) catching your outer spikes in the middle. You may need to do a little moving before you stitch to get both sides matching and as you would like them to sit. Stitch in the same way as you did the middle ribbon going through all three pieces of ribbon. Once this is done you can remove the pin!

Cut a piece of wire around 55cm long or however long you would like.

Fold your ribbon from one side at the bottom and turn it out so your outer spike coloured ribbon now sits across your middle coloured ribbon. Like the picture below

 Fold your wire in half.

 Insert one leg of your wire on each side. Inside your fold so that you are on the open side of the fold-over like above.

 Pull down and arrange your flight so it sits nicely.

Use your pliers, whilst holding your flight in place, and twist the wire so it is secure. Continue to twist to the end of the wire.

And there you have it one flight. To make a full set make 15 in total. This is the number in an in hand set, you need 9 for a harness set but its a good idea to make a full set so you have spares should any get dirty. Its unlikely you will use them all at any one time unless you space them very close together.

How to make the second type of flight - the tulip shape:

Firstly cut two pieces of ribbon one 25mm (here royal blue) and one 15mm wide (here orange). The 15mm should be 2cm shorter than the 25mm ribbon. This thinner ribbon will be your centre ribbon.

Cut the ends as with the other type of flight by folding and cutting around 5mm away from the end of the ribbon on the folded side to the top corners forming inward points. Take care to make these the same angle of both pieces of ribbon.

 By eye, place the centre ribbon on top of the base ribbon with points equally spaced from each other at both sides and the end inwards points down the middle of the ribbon matching on the centre line. Pin together the ribbons.

At this point I like to seam down the middle with my sewing machine but if you do not have one you do not need to do this part. I like to because it keeps the ribbon more closely together from the sides but you can skip this part and still have a great looking tulip flight.

The seam foot fits perfectly on my sewing machine so it is easy to do a quick seam in a matching thread. Sew a straight line without reversing at either end. Pull through the front thread to the back using a pin and tie at the back, these knots will not be seen on the front of the flight, cut the tails.

Fold the two ribbons in half with points matching.

Stitch at about 1cm on the centre line from the inward point of the centre ribbon.

Cut your wire as before to around 55cm or however long you want and fold in half. Insert in the fold of the ribbon.

Using matching thread or crochet cotton if you prefer (its slightly stronger but thread would also do fine if its of a good quality) Tie around the base just above the wire. 

1

2

3

 Loop one tail of your knot and then wrap the cotton around the base till tight then insert your end through the loop and pull down, tie ends then cut tails.

4

 Twist the wire with your pliers to secure the flight in place, not ruining the look of the ribbons, but so it doesn't flop over. Twist the wire to the bottom of the cut ends.

Make 15 in total as before for a full set. 

Coming soon in this series:

Part 2: The Shire mane roll

Part 3: The jug handle

Also to follow How to make Clydesdale standards and a series on plaiting!

Training horses for the farrier and the use of stocks.

The motto I use when training horses is: If you wouldn't want it done to you, don't do it to your horse. 

The use of stocks on the heavy horse is something I feel very passionate about. When you have a heavy horse you should be, and most probably are, prepared for the fact that they are 'heavy' and that they need training to behave, in many ways and most of the time, better than a normal sized horse. Therefore you must train your horse better and train harder for compliance and assistance and not skip this important education and instead tie your horse to a structure so it cannot move or react to pain or fear. The reasons people do this usually get put down as these 5 points - 'its safer for the horse / farrier', 'its nicer for the horse', 'its been done for years', 'it reduces the number of people who need to be present' or that 'the horse couldn't hold its leg up for long enough otherwise'. These statements are entirely rubbish. Using stocks is both cowardly and bad practice and if any farrier ever said to me that he would not do my horse unless he was in stocks I would send him away and classify him as a bad farrier who I would not trust at all with any of my horses welfare. If an owner feels he must use stocks, they have not trained / handled the horse enough, have not dealt with a problem which is causing the horse to have issues or they do not know their horses as well as they should and they should consider to themselves if heavy horse owning is right for them if they are not willing to put in the time or effort needed for heavy horse ownership.

Horses, all horses, not just heavy horses, work with you in a relationship that is based on trust. By stopping a horse from reacting naturally to its surroundings, or the actions of others you are breaking that trust by saying to your horse that you do not trust him and you are also saying that the horse shouldn't trust you because you are by your actions saying that when you want to do something with your horse you will not work together but instead you will force him with might to do what you want even if its frightening or painful. You will only find in the long run that those horses which do not back down and give in and those that suffer through your actions will become more difficult to work with in other areas of training and those with a lot of spirit will not trust you or work with you and will become violent or dangerous. You are in the long run doing your horse a dis-service and he will end up as dog meat further in the future.

It is true that without a hoof there is no horse so the need to train a horse for the farrier/ trimmer is the most important thing you will do for your horse. It as important as the selection of your farrier / trimmer. Not all farriers / trimmers are equal in my mind, even if they all have the same qualifications you must always have your horses best interests at heart and look at the work carried out objectively. It is important to have a farrier / trimmer who shows respect to your horse at all times, constant hitting or jabbing in the ribs will only start a reluctance for your horse to stand well and show respect for the farrier rather than encourage good behavior. It is far easier to stop a problem before it starts than to fix one, this is a heavy horse, if he doesn't wish to lift a leg in fear of being jabbed or smacked, he simply wont!

All training is, in the end, is repetition and consistency. Repetition of the same things till they become second nature and consistency so your horse knows his boundaries and whats good and whats not.  Good training of the heavy horse starts at a very young age with regular hoof lifting, getting the horse used to having his legs touched, bathed, picking out and trimming every 6 - 8 weeks. I go 8 weeks because my horses hooves are strong but they do grow relatively fast and after 8 weeks there is always 1 inch plus to be trimmed. I try to always be regular and only stray by a couple of weeks if it is necessary that I must. If I go up to 12 weeks, as I did earlier in the year due to not being paid on time, my horses hooves start to have issues. Cracks form, bars grow and pockets of infected tissue which are difficult to pick out begins to fester which can lead to problems such as abscesses and infections all of which cause expense and can take a long time to recover from. During this training you will need to train your young horse to the halter and to stand tied to a safe tie point with a safety release (a bailing twine circle loop or safety release purchased from a shop). It is important that the young horse enjoys all of your training so the use of 'good girl / boy', pats and encouragement can never be underestimated. Clicker training works for some people but I find telling horses they are 'good' with lots of over the top praise is all I need, I haven't found a horse yet that doesn't love it and that doesn't train positively from it!

Not all of us are lucky enough to have a horse from young or before they have been failed. Most of my horses have been 1 year plus and some have been dangerous to handle even at this young age. When you look at most violent or dangerous horses it comes from fear, illness or they are trying to protect themselves. To get past this fear you must let your horse know that they can trust you and that you have their best interests, in return they will give you their full trust. You will not gain a horses trust through the use of stocks, even as a temporary method but persistence in training can change what was once somebodies failure into an extraordinary achievement and it is so worth the effort to train your horse well. To explain some ways I train a heavy horse which has not been taught to lift the hoof or has had some issues I will use the example of one of my own Shires Solly with some background information.

I must say here that I take on a lot of heavy horses with issues and sometimes this can be dangerous and I am always willing to take responsibility for my own actions when dealing with my horses, if you are unsure in your ability to train you should employ a professional to work with your horse. You should always keep yourself safe, wear protective clothing eg hard hat and get to know your horse slowly first so you know how far you can go, his reactions / signals, likes and dislikes. Do not push the limit of your safety for quick results, slow is better for both horse and owner anyway, its a journey you are taking together.

Solly was purchased by my father at a dispersal sale several years ago as a yearling. His previous owner was reasonably honest to my father and said that he had some (understatement) issues due to being put in stocks after being taken from off the field, wild and un-handled, to be shod ready for sale. Unfortunately for Solly the shock of this without any prior training lead to him having severe colic and as the seller said he 'didn't think he would make it but somehow he pulled through'. This lead to him, 2 months later, in a sale unable to be touched let alone handled and a danger to himself and others, it was clear he would most likely end up as meat. Horses like Solly do not get given a second chance and once a fear has been put upon a horse especially a heavy horse they have very few chances at having a life even though it wasn't his fault he ended up this way. My father purchased him and the next day he was eventually dumped by our transporter 40 miles from our house due to his behavior in the lorry. He was fearful and exhausted and this was our first meeting in the middle of a car park, just me and him in a halter made from blue nylon twisted rope that had cut into his face and was bleeding, he was terrified of having any part of him touched and he just darted here and there but luckily he had no real strength at that time. I thought at this point I would most likely get him trained to have his shoes removed within a couple of months. I was wrong. I put in daily bouts of training, short bursts around and as part of his routine and some longer sessions when I felt he could take it, and after a month I could put on a halter, tie him up and groom his head and neck and lead him reasonably well although sometimes he would bolt, but his back end was impossible, he still had his auction sticker on his behind and I couldn't get near to remove it. I was doing daily leg rubbing with 'Yorick', A stuffed rubber glove, stuck on a 6 ft curtain pole. This is a wonderful tool for the nervous / dangerous horse. Allows persistant touch with genuine feel without danger to you or the horse, horses do however kick out at 'Yorick' and you should be prepared for your implement to go flying. It teaches a horse that no matter what he does the hand will not go away so he may as well get used to the feeling of being handled. Not only is this good for the legs but it is also good for back and rear end, under the tail, all over. Make sure its fun, lots of praise and encouragement.
After 2 months I was still no nearer to getting Solly farrier ready. At this point I called the vet to assist because the shoes needed to be removed for his health, they were awful shoes on top of everything else, weighted to make his confirmation better and he just tripped over all the time flat on his face, his skinny little legs couldn't even lift them. He had awful digestion, worms and constant diarrhea and could not put on any weight so the effort was making him exhausted. They really had to go. My vet who is very used to our family and that we have animals with issues sedated Solly first to see if that would calm him enough to allow shoe removal and a trim. Our farrier did manage his fronts like this and Solly was very well behaved but even with double sedation it was not enough to make Solly calm enough for the farrier to even get near his back hooves. Solly was put under full anesthetic in the field to have the rear shoes removed and a trim. This way Solly didn't get damaged by the efforts of trying to pick up his hooves and when he came round he was drowsy but none the wiser and our training didn't get affected in any way so it didn't leave any trace in the long run. He was however able to walk better once fully awake, his hooves seemed a lot lighter and he seemed confused by how much less effort he needed.
For the next 4 months I continued to use 'Yorick' and it allowed me to get closer and closer. After seeing Solly when he was under sedation our farrier would not go near him again even though he was improving, which we accepted, there is no point in trying to make a farrier do a horse he doesn't want to do, and for Solly we got a trimmer who was willing to spend time and maybe just do one hoof on a day but take her time and be respectful and kind to him. It took 9 months before we could trim all 4 hooves in one day properly and even then this took 5 hours. It was a New years day and it was the greatest way to start the year - I cried tears of joy! Within a couple of months from that he was trimmed every 8 weeks just like the others and taking the same amount of time (30 - 45 mins) as the others on the yard but still by his trimmer. We have changed trimmers since (its been 4 years) and although Solly still hates most men we now have a trimmer who is male and Solly adores him and he does a great job on his hooves and now I don't even have to stay in the stable, I can go and make tea or anything. I will never get Solly shod, I don't think its worth it, his hooves are so good without it and its not worth taking the chance of any fears it could restart. The only issues we have now are that I can't let Sollys tail grow below the hock or have long in the rear rugs, if they touche his back legs he kicks out at nothing all day, people even knock on the door to say they think he has colic and he just hates it so his tail is kept short!

Here are a few of the tricks we used for him to get to this point during those months before he could be trimmed regularly.

• Holding the head collar by the cheek piece gently is like holding a childs hand to a horse. It gives reassurance and will calm a scared horse. It also builds trust. You want your horse to be calmed by your presence.
• Using thick soft lead ropes looped under the leg at the knee or gently around the fetlock to lift a front or back hooves is very helpful. Lifting and counting to 5 and then putting the leg down. You can slowly increase the time you hold it up for and get closer and closer to the hoof. Eventually you can pat the hoof all over and then eventually hold the hoof. Remember lots of praise. Don't be surprised by any shaking or an amazing will to keep that leg down stuck to the floor. Give a good distance, keep yourself safe, be prepared to drop the lead rope and move away.
• Solly would sweat and foam when very frightened and I didn't like to go to far when he got into this state. Short sessions are good as well as long sessions, don't push it too far.
• Always end on a high note. A good point is something your horse will remember ending on.
• Grooming the horses legs as far as you can go, combing the feathers, that is also training!
• Don't just do leg training when being tied up, they will learn to not want to be tied, mixing with grooming or plaiting etc calms nerves.
• Treats are good in the right place. As a super reward for really good behavior it isn't a sin. When Solly picked all his hooves up on the same day he got a Crunchie bar (yes I know its a chocolate bar but I've fed them to my horses since I can remember without any issues and they love them! Pineapple is also a great treat in my horses eyes for super behavior), he really felt it was worth doing if he got something great for trusting me!
• Solly hated to see any tools, or any other person in the stable, out of the family circle, when doing his hooves so standing between him and the trimmer was a good plan.
• Feeling a hoof pick was a worry to him, if he heard metal noises or felt it, he would worry so the radio being on was always helpful. Getting him used to just tapping all over the pad of the hoof with the hoof pick (after patting all over with my hand) before placing down the hoof and then praise really helped and eventually I managed to actually pick out the hoof. Seems like a long way round but it was worth it.
• Praise when he does it right not just praise everything or you will be giving mixed messages, you must be consistent, if you don't know what you want, how can he know? For example, did he put that foot down or did he snatch it away you don't want to praise snatching. Be clear.
• Never hit your horse, jab them in the ribs or shout, you will take your training backwards. I train so all I have to say is their name in a low gruff voice and he knows that means that hes not being helpful.
• When your horse is eating his hay net whilst you are working with his feet you are getting somewhere. Encourage eating, if they have the time to eat they are feeling happier!
• Solly hated me to act fearful, rubbing down his back towards his back legs in his mind gave anticipation of something horrible coming and that I was worried about getting to what I was going to do. He prefers for me to be to the point and just tap the side of his leg with the back of my hand saying 'lift'. This may just be Solly but I think sometimes confidence is important to a horse, if you're confidant he doesn't feel he has anything to fear - Please use common sense though if you have something to fear don't be stupid and go straight in, an accident will not help either of you with training in the long run.
• Saying lift as you lift will eventually lead to your horse lifting his hoof by voice command this is always helpful and stops any feather pulling being needed by anyone at any time.
• During the time when your horse will not lift his legs for the trimmer, nappies soaked in disinfectant will keep your horses hooves healthy as will walking over a soaked sponge mat. Its not ideal but it keeps infections at bay and luckily during this time we only had one time when a large chunk of wall detached and it bled badly. Our trimmer was able to cut this away from the floor and we sprayed it and luckily we had no infection.

Most importantly in the end don't be afraid to change your timeline things don't always happen in the amount of time you want them too and when training your horse this is definitely something you have to be flexible with. Some days things don't go to plan, one day you may feel like you've gone backwards but never mind, get back on track tomorrow, you are still a lot closer to your goal than those who don't bother!

Solly and his trimmer earlier this month.

Chorioptic mange - Feather mites.

Chorioptic mites are something that heavy horse owners and heavy horses alike know all too well. They are difficult to get rid of and are a constant battle, always around and always easier to prevent rather than cure.

Heres an image for you from the British veterinary association journal of a chorioptic equus mite so you know what you are dealing with!

 

Chorioptic Equus. (No name given for the person who took this lovely picture - but thank you!)

The chorioptic mite lives on the skin surface and has a mouth adapted to chew at skin debris. They do not burrow into the skin and they do not bite the horse. Some horses do not show any signs of being infested whilst others show a reaction caused by inflammation and the horse can kick the back legs in a stomping motion, bite at the legs or body and rub areas raw. Although this is mostly seen on the lower legs, mites live in the mane and tail too and sometimes other areas on the body. This can lead to patchy areas of hair loss and scaly thickened skin which is then open to bleeding and bacterial infections and are by some believed to lead on to the awful disease CPL (Please see the page chronic progressive lymphedema.  for more information) if left so it is important to prevent infestation or treat them as soon as you are aware that your horse has them. All horses including those without clinical signs must be treated to stop re-infestations as must bedding, rugs, horse lorrys, stables areas etc.

In the UK and most other countries there are no products licensed to treat chorioptic mange.
The main ways people remove an infestation of mites are by using dectomax injections or fipronil spray. Both of these should be used under supervision of a vet and veterinary advice should be sought whilst treating your horse.

The Dectomax injection is an injection licensed for the treatment of certain ectoparasites and endoparasites (mites, lice, worms) in sheep and cattle, containing doromectin which is the same family as ivermectin which is in some horse (and dog) wormers. It is used off license to treat leg mites in horses. Often horses need two injections, given 2- 3 weeks apart. This is a reasonably effective treatment. It is quite oily and this is the main problem with its injection in horses - it can cause a lump at the injection site, which can be painful and in the worse case could develop into an abscess, though this is very rare. It is less likely to occur when the injection is given subcutaneously, but conversely hoses usually find intramuscular injections less painful. This injection must always be done under veterinary supervision. I found this extremely effective. In many countries this is done annually to keep mites at bay and stop infestation as well. It is becoming more regular in the UK and vets here are becoming more used to doing this with horses than they were 10 - 15 years ago.

Application of a spray containing fipronil (Frontline spray) to all legs as indicated by your vet can kill mites. It can be costly, difficult to apply properly and is also not its licensed use although in studies there have been no side effects found so far. I found personally that this did not make much improvement but in clinical tests it is shown as effective as dectomax injections. I would advise to wear a mask when applying this as well as covering arms and leaving your horse tied for around an hour after application because horses with mites will bite at the legs with their teeth and this was my main worry after application. You must spray the base of the mane and top of the tail as well when doing this treatment. You should respray after 2 weeks to make sure you also get all hatching eggs.

There are also specialist washes available now. These are licensed products for use on horses and should be tried first. These are available through your vet and are to be used under veterinary guidance. Sometimes dependent on your circumstances these may not be deemed a suitable treatment for your horse. Please phone your vet for more information on these.

Prevention
I have listed here so examples of products which can be used to help prevention of mites. I have also linked to some products which I personally use, there are of course other products available and this is not advertisement as I am in no way directly or indirectly associated with these companies and this blog does not make any money from advertising, this is just an example to help you if you need examples of the products on the market.

• The legs must be regularly washed and dried thoroughly. A Castile soap (100% olive oil soap) is recommended by many as it is non drying but also oil based and does not contain chemicals if it is a true castile soap. olive-oil-soap-125g

• Parasite shampoos are available such as barrier pesky pest wash linked here shampoos and many others are also available in shops and through your vet.

• When drying the feathers they should be dried using wood flour or sawdust. Not rubbed into the skin which could cause sensitivity with any lesions but gently thrown around the leg from above to dry thoroughly the hair on the legs. 

• Pig oil and sulphur can stop mite infestation and keep scratches and pastern dermatitis at bay please click the link to the page what is pig oil? for more information on this. As most mites are also found in the mane and tail these areas should be treated too.

• Coopers fly repellent plus, which also kills lice is also good at preventing an infestation of mites has instructions on use which should be followed closely. Please read the instructions for more details. intervet-fly-repellant-plus-coopers

• Lincoln insecticidal louse powder is a permethrin based powder with low mammalian toxicity good for stables and animal houses, rugs and bedding and is the only louse powder which kills mites - it is not for use directly upon horses or other animals. I always put a coating of this over my winter rugs before they go into storage over the summer this way I know they will be mite free come winter I also use this regularly around the stable edge when I change my bedding as a preventative. general-care

• Keeping a regular worming routine can stop mites. It has been reported that oral Ivermectin based wormers which active ingredient is Ivermectin can be effective (worming the horse at a standard dose as with usual worming based on the weight of your horse and after reading all the advice on age and usage of that particular wormer- if in doubt please contact your vet for advice). This is using a drug which is known to be safe and is licensed to be given to horses but for a purpose for which it is not intended and so may not be effective. 

Other reading material for this topic.

http://www.equinescienceupdate.co.uk/choriopt.htm 

Chronic Progressive Lymphedema (CPL) in heavy horses.

Having had a horse myself with CPL I know that it is very frustrating and you can have multiple vets look at your horse and have blood tests or skin scrapes taken, be prescribed many lotions and potions and still not have any improvement. I can say though as well that when I went and saw an equine vet for a completely different problem, he saw that my horse had this disease and I was prescribed an injection which completely removed all clinical signs for the last 5 years of my horses life. A good equine vet is wonderful so going to a equine veterinary clinic for something which needs someone who has specialised I would say is very worth the time, effort, travel and money if you can do it, it may well save you a lot of these things in the long run.

Chronic Progressive Lymphedema is a disease which is in most draft horse breeds as well as some smaller horses and ponies with feather such as the Fell or Highland. It is still relatively unknown about, although it is becoming more openly spoken about and more veterinarians are now learning about the disease and research is being carried out to find treatments. Some people think CPL is a genetic disorder whilst others think it could be started through infection. There is currently no official treatment to heal this disease but it can be managed to varying degrees, some methods I will describe down the page. Effective management of this disease is entirely down to how quickly you catch the problem. The faster you detect a problem the easier it can be kept at bay.

What are the characteristics of CPL?

The clinical signs closely resemble a condition known in humans as chronic lymphedeme or elephantiasis nostra verrucosa. The condition has therefore been referred to as Chronic progressive lymphedema (CPL) in draft horses. It has been seen in almost all draft breeds and Gypsy Vanners and Cobs. The horse will have progressive swelling, Hyperkeratosis and fibrosis of the distal limbs. The lower leg swelling is caused by abnormal functioning of the lymphatic system in the skin. This can cause other symptoms such as a compromised immune system so the horse is open to secondary infections. This can start at an early age but may not show its self till later in life. It can lead to disfigurement and disability which then would lead inevitably to premature death so management is essential to stop it from causing further damage. 

Symptoms can start from apparent mites, leg stomping and 'therapy resistant' pastern dermatitis or "scratches". The earliest sores will have thickened skin, crusting and swollen skin folds in the pastern area. Sometimes there is a clear discharge and the skin will feel oily. They have to be felt on the horse because early lesions will not be visable because of the feathers of the horse. You should feel regularly to check your horse does not have lumps and sores under and around the pastern and take notice if your horse is stomping his rear legs. Secondary infections for example, bacterial (staphylococcus), fungal infections or chorioptic mange, start very easily once these lesions start and treatment of these are usually unsuccessful due to the poor perfusion caused by the CPL. These secondary infections cause more inflammation and the lymphedema worsens and it becomes a cycle hence it is termed as progressive. Over time the swelling worsens and can start to form large folds of skin and nodules which can encircle the leg and then cause mechanical difficulties to walking which interferes with free movement.

Management of CPL

As said before currently there is no way to heal this disease, but research is ongoing and I hope that more money will be put into finding a cure as the numbers of drafts with the disease continues to rise around the world. Management is key with this disease and although at times it can seem like a battle it can be won and your horse can have a good, long, healthy working life.

I MUST SAY THAT MOST OF THESE TREATMENTS ARE NOT LICENSED FOR USE ON HORSES AND SO IT IS VITAL THAT YOU USE A VET AND GET ADVICE AT ALL TIMES WHEN TREATING YOUR HORSE FOR CPL, CHORIOPTIC MANGE, FUNGAL OR BACTERIAL INFECTIONS.

• Injections of dectomax.

Dectomax injection is an injection licensed for the treatment of certain ectoparasites and endoparasites (mites, lice, worms) in sheep and cattle, containing doromectin which is the same family as ivermectin which is in some horse (and dog) wormers. It is used off license to treat leg mites in horses. Often horses need two injections, given 2 - 3 weeks apart. |This is a reasonably effective treatment. It is quite oily and this is the main problem with its injection in horses - it can cause a lump at the injection site, which can be painful and in the worse case could develop into an abscess, though this is very rare. It is less likely to occur when the injection is given subcutaneously, but conversely hoses usually find intramuscular injections less painful. This injection must always be done under veterinary supervision. When my horse had this injection the effect was really rather quick and all lesions went within 2 weeks. We had the injections annually and his legs looked perfect until he died of other causes 5 years later at the age of 22. All horses are different so I do not know how the effect would be for different horses but I have put this first because I wish I had found out about it 10 years earlier than I did. This was the last treatment I tried and I did not have to return to the others afterward other than maintenance of hygiene, washing drying and using sulphur powder washes. 

• Clipping the feathers.

If your horse has lesions already clipping the feathers will make the infections easier to treat and topical lotions, pig oil and sulphur or any of the other applications are able to get to the skin easier. I hated to clip my horses feather because I thought they would protect the leg but in the end it does make treatment far easier and cost effective.

• Manual lymph drainage massage.

Specfic massage strokes are designed to facilitate the movement of the lymph. The lymphatic system is a network and so has the capacity to absorb redirected fluid from the areas that are flooded into areas that are not therefore reducing the swelling. This must be carried out correctly because it is important to massage the lymph in the correct direction. There are people trained to carry out lymph massage. Please contact your vet for more advice.

• Compression bandages.

In humans with the equivalent condition bandages are used to reduce the swelling. It is based on the idea that the lymph fluid is pushed from the area and leaves the system by being urinated out. short stockings made specifically for this job can be helpful, they need to be changed regularly because they will get damp from the discharge from the sores and so to keep the area clean and to stop further infection these must be changed regularly. Bandages can be helpful to reduce the swelling and make treatment easier. A vet can advise you more on how to carry this out. It is important to do this correctly so as to not cause damage. 

• Exercise.

Exercise is very important to move the fluid around the body and encourage the fluid to leave the system. Plenty of exercise and grazing is important.

•  Regular hoof trimming and cleaning.

Many horses with CPL get thrush regularly compared to those without and so regular cleaning and trimming is vital to make sure infection is kept at bay and that the frog is kept working efficiently to keep blood movement in the legs and body as good as it can be.

• Treatments to stop secondary infection and the re-infestation of mites.

Horses with CPL need constant treatment to stop or cure infestations of mites, and or bacteria. To do this the legs must be regularly washed and dried thoroughly. A castile soap (100% olive oil soap) is recommended by many as it is non drying but also oil based and does not contain chemicals if it is a true castile soap. 
When drying the feathers they should be dried using wood flour or sawdust. Not rubbed into the skin which could cause sensitivity with any lesions but gently thrown around the leg from above to dry thoroughly the hair on the legs. 
Pig oil and sulphur can stop mite infestation and keep scratches and pastern dermatitis at bay please click the link to the page what is pig oil? for more information on this. As most mites are also found in the mane and tail these areas should be treated too.
There are washes now available which were not when my horse had CPL. These are licensed products for use for horses and should be tried first and are available through your vet to be used under veterinary guidance. Sometimes these may not be deemed a suitable treatment. This treatment involves using a benzoyl peroxide shampoo to break down the scurf and then applying a dilute lime sulphur to the legs. The horse may be too sore to allow shampooing or have stopped allowing touch to the legs due to CPL, in this case the treatment can be sprayed onto the legs - this does dye white feathers yellow and smells like bad eggs due to the sulphur. This should be applied once weekly for 4 weeks. There are also some washes which are off license and these too should be used under veterinary guidance and involves applying an Ivermectin solution mixed with propylene glycol mixture then applying the solution to the legs. 
Keeping a regular worming routine can stop mites. It has been reported that oral Ivermectin based wormers which active ingredient is Ivermectin can be effective (worming the horse at a standard dose as with usual worming based on the weight of your horse and after reading all the advice on age and usage of that particular wormer- if in doubt please contact your vet for advice). This is using a drug which is known to be safe and is licensed to be given to horses but for a purpose for which it is not intended and so may not be effective. 
Application of a spray containing fipronil (Frontline spray) to all legs as indicated by your vet can kill mites. It can be costly, difficult to apply properly and is also not its licensed use although in studies there have been no side effects found so far. I found personally that this did not make much improvement but symptoms also did not worsen so it may have stopped the legs from getting worse secondary infections. I would advise to wear a mask when applying this as well as covering arms and leaving your horse tied for around an hour after application because horses with CPL will bite at the legs with their teeth and this was my main worry after application.


I will update this page if and when I have more information to bring to you.

For further reading and for further advice please click on the following links:

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/15923/whats-brewing-under-those-feathers

http://www.harlequinfarmsgypsyhorses.com/ChronicProgressiveLymphedema.html

http://equinemld.com/

http://issuu.com/fourinhand/docs/the_horse_report_cpl_in_draft_horses 

Why does Sulphur powder get used on feathers?

Flowers Of Sulphur is also known as yellow sulphur (sulfur) powder, is a bright yellow powder obtained from naturally-occurring volcanic brimstone deposits. It is a purified form of elemental sulphur called sublimed sulphur in scientific circles. Flowers of sulphur are produced by distillation. The resulting powder is chemically active and has several important uses, including preserving fruit, fertilising plants and controlling certain kinds of pests. FOS is a natural mineral that has been used as a remedy for centuries. In ancient texts such as the bible it is called brimstone, and 2,000 years ago it was used as a remedy for skin disorders and other ailments.

Flowers of sulphur is a fairly pure form of elemental sulphur, with only a few impurities. It includes some oxygen, and it slowly oxidises to form a small amount of sulphuric acid, or H2SO4. Flowers of sulphur should not be confused with flour of sulphur, the ground form of a less pure variety of sulphur called roll sulphur or cast rhombic sulphur. Sulphur is a non-metal and is the fifteenth most abundant element in the Earth's rocky crust and upper mantle.

Sulphur is flammable, with a flashpoint of 207 degrees Celsius and a spontaneous combustion temperature of 232 degrees C. It may ignite explosively if the dust becomes airborne. Airborne sulphur dust is also an inhalation hazard. It may cause skin or eye irritation. While flowers of sulphur are not poisonous, ingesting large amounts may cause sore throat, headache and nausea. Store flowers of sulphur in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry location.

You can buy Sulphur powder at pet shops and animal stock feed stores / country stores. Farmers, those with animal stock, and pet breeders have used it for many decades. It is cheap and effective.
When you look at Flowers of Sulphur under a microscope the crystals resemble flowers, hence the name.
Flowers of sulphur is not the same as MSM (methylsulfonylmethane), which is also a source of sulphur.

 Sulphur powder has many uses for horses and their owners:

• Antiseptic. Kills bacteria and fungi on the skin. Can be applied to wounds, cuts and grazes.
• Lice. Kills and repels head lice and pubic lice.
• Mites. Treats all kinds of mites including skin mites.
• FOS treats most skin complaints in pets and farm animals. It kills and repels fleas, tics, mites and lice. Treats skin allergies, mange and scabies.
• Horses. Good for sweet itch, mud fever and skin complaints.

How does it work? 

Flowers of sulphur are effective as an insecticidal dust, commonly used against the mites that cause scabies or chorioptic mange. The powder, once applied (please see what-is-pig-oil? for more advice on an application method) , slowly oxidises to form the active ingredient sulphur dioxide. Sulphur dioxide is used as a preservative for fruit, wine-making and in many other everyday uses. 

Although it is a traditional and long used remedy and is a product in many veterinary as well as human medications some people and animals are sensitive or have allergies to sulphur and a test patch should always be carried out before using sulphur powder. With heavy horses if concerned please consult a veterinarian for advice before trying sulphur powder on a horse.

What is Pig oil?

Pig oil is a mineral based oil which is used on heavy horses with feather. Originally it was used on pigs to stop their skin from cracking hence it was given the name.

Traditionally it has been used for the following reasons:

* To prevent and control mud fever in wet and muddy conditions.
* To tackle feather mite and lice in horses and livestock.
* Helps to create a barrier against wet conditions around your horse’s legs to prevent a build-up of stable, muck and grass stains.
* Can also prevent cracked heels
* Provides a lustrous shine for show animals and livestock.
* Used to de-tangle manes, tails and feathers

Pig oil is available in many shops as well as your local country store. Many brand names sell it in large bottles so the price can vary although a little does go a long way.
As an alternative baby oil is also mineral oil and is similar, I regularly use this instead of pig oil as sometimes per litre its cheaper and its more refined but also usually contains paraffinum as an added ingredient.
Beware of pig oil being sold which is actually used car oil, always make sure you check the origin and make up of any oil you buy. You should always used animal grade pig oil on your horse.

For the treatment of mites and lice and also sores pig oil us usually mixed with Sulphur powder (yellow powder which is processed for animal use not for garden use) so that it forms a paste. Pig oil does not come mixed with Sulphur unless stated. Sulphur powder is widely available from most country stores in large tubs relatively cheaply (1.5kg for around £8 for a Battles branded tub). This is applied to the horses legs after they have been cleaned and dried thoroughly. You should use rubber gloves for this process if you are not sure if you will have a reaction to the mixture, it shouldnt bother your skin but this is just a precaution should you be sensitive to it. Rub down the legs allowing the oil to run over the hooves as you go. Do not pull up on the hair just rub down to the skin in a downward and side to side motion. Although it looks awful to start with it will sink in after a couple of days and you wont see it at all, it will though form a waterproof barrier which will help to tackle many feather issues as well as condition and care for the feathers in the long run, stopping breakage and tangles.

Because mites also breed in the mane and tail, the bases of these should also be treated. Only the base needs to be covered and just enough to cover the area. This will kill any mites which are breeding and living in these places. This will also help sweet itch as gnats and midges tend to die in the oil and they cannot bite.

When making up Pig oil and Sulphur it should be in a well ventilated place (without wind) or with a mask. It is not good to breath Sulphur powder into the lungs or to get it into the eyes.

To make up Pig oil / Sulphur mix in a container (ie ice cream tub) you should add the pig oil to the bucket / container first and then the Sulphur powder and mix them together by stirring or using your hand. Make it to the consistency of milk shake, not to runny, thick, but not too thick and then its ready to apply. I find the mixture is around 1L of oil to 1.5 cups of Sulphur powder although there's no real recipe so to speak and you can't really get it wrong! Don't worry about lumps you can press these out as you apply it.
Although this is a traditional remedy and still used widely today, horses should be patch tested with some pig oil or pig oil Sulphur mix on a small area before use as it can sting and even swell up the legs of some sensitive skinned horses so care should be taken and advice sought from a vet if desired.